Dying Leather

Welcome to The Trench Line. The forum for World War One re-enactors and those with an interest in the military history of the Great War of 1914 - 1918. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free.

Join our community!

If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Dying Leather
Topic Started: Nov 7 2009, 09:53 AM (151 Views)
jumpinjan	Nov 7 2009, 09:53 AM Post #1
Sergeant Posts: 110 Group: Members Member #208 Joined: September 22, 2006	I had to dye some German Jackboots and ammo pouches to a darker brown (from a light tan). I purchased a 4oz bottle of light brown (I did purchased a bottle of the dark brown, but it looked too dark to me) of Fiebing leather dye at a local shoe repair store. Here are some links that help with the correct process of applying the dye http://www.fiebing.com/Dyes.aspx http://atthefront.com/g_boots_jacks.htm Also, I'll give you some of my tips. Use a lab washbottle filled with MEK to clean off any waxes. Be careful of the fumes & runoff of MEK. Let it dry, could be many hours depending on the temp of the ambient air. Get some gloves and an apron so you don't ruin your clothes (this dye is really bad and will stain ANYTHING) and spread some old paper around the workbench. I recommend to "spray" the dye on using an automotive touch-up gun (I used my DeVilbiss EGHV small gun, but there are some good cheap guns out there. I also have a small fume hood to spray in, or do this outside ). I didn't like the streaks left over from the dauber from the dye kit. You will be amazed at how easy the dye can be applied by spraying. It makes the leather look great. After the dye dries, apply a leather balm using a brush, not using a cloth. Using the brush is more efficent and easier to get the balm into the boots. Apply a liberal amount. let them stand for 5 minutes and THEN use a paper towel or cloth to wipe the excess off. The balm really makes the leather soft again. You can't skip this step, it is very important! Let the leather dry for a day or two and then apply your waterproofing using like Mink oil. Jan
	Dayton OH, The Birthplace Of Aviation


BuglerJay	Nov 8 2009, 08:52 PM Post #2
Vize-Feldwebel Posts: 165 Group: Members Member #227 Joined: October 24, 2006	I get pretty good results from simply taking tan/russet leather and oiling it with Neatsfoot oil. Gives a nice dark medium brown color. I've done this with some holsters from California Canvas and Leather and I like the results much better than some that were commercially dyed. Can always dye over the oiled leather if you want it darker. With use and repeated oilings, it will darken naturally.



Gew8805	Nov 9 2009, 09:27 AM Post #3
Sergeant Posts: 108 Group: Members Member #149 Joined: April 14, 2006	I was going to say use light applications of pure neatsfoot oil if all you want to do is darken the leather but Bugler Jay beat me to it. The dye is fine though you will need neatsfoot oil (again, PURE neatsfoot oil) at some point anyway. I'm not a fan of mink oil or anything that contains petroleum products, especially Pecards. That being said, they are fine on user grade new reproduction gear that will eventually be used until worn out and thrown away but certainly should not be used on original, collectible items. The use of the spray application is interesting, I have always used lambs wool pads and the streaking is not a problem.
	T.P. Hern IR92 "My life, when it is written, will read better than it lived." James Goldman, "The Lion in Winter"


tmattimore	Nov 10 2009, 07:05 AM Post #4
Sergeant Posts: 94 Group: Members Member #63 Joined: September 21, 2005	Just a plug. My prefered dye is Angelus second would be Lincoln. They bleed out much less then Feibings but are harder to find. Try a shoe finder or large shoe repair shop. Tom
	Fritz Sohlennagel AKA Tom Mattimore AKA Tommy shoes The most important item of a soldiers equipment is his knapsack so that he may carry an extra pair of shoes and half soles" Sir Arthur Wellesly


« Previous Topic · Great War Vendors & Equipment · Next Topic »